Body Modification Guide
Table of Contents
Some wolves choose to have piercings, tattoos, and other body modifications. Some also choose to wear jewelry or other accessories. We allow for many modifications to your character, but it is important to keep realism in mind!
Keep in mind that piercing and tattooing are skills that must be learned and usually must be performed by someone else. Also, wearables such as dangly earrings and bracelets may clink and make noise, which is the last thing a hunting wolf wants.
One important consideration when thinking about bodily modifications -- your wolf must be a Luperci in order to have modifications. Paws don't make for easily handling of tattoos, dyes, or any other modifications -- your character needs dexterous, human-analogous Luperci fingers in order to work the tools needed for modifications! Alternatively, your wolf might have had a Luperci friend in the past who performed their modifications for them -- if that's the case and you have a non-Luperci with bodily modifications, make sure you note this in their history, please!
If you are interest in having your character learn how to do these things, remember to be realistic in their learning -- a beginner would have difficulty piercing advanced areas (tongue, navel, etc.) whereas someone with many years of experience will be able to pierce these tougher, more dangerous spots. The same goes for tattoos -- a beginner would lack the skill necessary to create an extremely intricate piece, whereas an advanced artist would be more capable of this feat.
Again, for the most part we are very lenient, and you are free to do whatever you want, but do try to keep realism in mind!
Fur Dyeing
Though ‘Souls doesn’t allow winged purple wolves with green spots, that doesn't mean your creativity needs to be restricted. The easiest way for a character to modify their appearance (and the least permanent) is by using dye to change the color of their fur. Yellow, orange, blue, red, green, brown and grey can be achieved by using natural material -- specifically, plant materials like bark, leaves, berries and nuts. Check here for a list of plants to use for natural dyes! While the steps involved on the previous link are intended for fabric, the process for fur is very much the same.
Once you choose a color, the plant material will need gathered. Pigments are strongest when fresh in regards to plant material (though they can also be gathered from earth and mineral sources, which will be covered later). Be sure to use plants that would be found in the Nova Scotia area, unless you can explain how it got there (an old botanical garden, perhaps?) and certainly in season. You won’t be able to find lilacs in the middle of December, after all. With fresh materials the process then becomes a matter of boiling the pigment out of the plants into the water that would serve as your dye. Once this simmers, it will need to be removed from the heat and left to sit for several hours. Apply, wash, and let dry -- the results will be very light at first, but remember, lather, rinse and repeat!
Keep in mind this process will only show up on light fur. Dark grays, browns, and blacks will only hold the tint, which will not be seen unless in direct sunlight. Bleaching is possible, but because bleach weakens over time, it will not be able to completely strip the color from dark hair. Additionally, this process will damage the hair if repeated excessively, sometimes to the point it thins and begins to fall out. For this reason, few wolves will play with such chemicals, especially because the smell is so overpowering to them. Lemon juice can lighten hair and fur when exposed to sun, but not very dramatically.
These are all things to keep in mind when considering dyeing fur. Remember, too, that no dye is permanent! You’ll need to touch it up every few weeks!
Tattooing
So using dye seems like a process that’s way too involved without permanent results? Well, then tattooing is the way to go for you! For obvious reasons, tattoos don’t work quite the same as they do with people. Wolves are covered in thick fur, which is nature’s way of protecting their skin from the elements, much like our own clothes. Because tattoos are applied to skin, they are only visible on skin. They do not change the color of hair, due in large part because they do not reach the follicles. Tattooing works because it places the ink in the dermis, or the second layer of skin on the body. So what is actually seen is ink below the surface of the epidermis, or the top layer of skin.
Pre-Process
Tattoos are not applied before hair is shaved from the area in which the ink will be applied. This is done not only to give the artist a clean working area, but also to allow the area to be disinfected. For our purposes on ‘Souls, the same concept applies -- but unlike humans, a wolf’s fur has two layers: a guard coat and a much thicker underlayer, which prevent the elements from reaching their skin. So essentially, even if a wolf was to be shaved and then tattooed, their fur would just grow right back and cover it! There are three ways to go about getting around this problem. You could have a tattoo in a place with very thin or no hair, over a scarred area, or by branding (which would effectively create a scarred area where the tattoo could be placed after healing).
Process
So, once the placement is taken care of, it’s time to bust out the ink! Well, not quite. There are many different ways to tattoo, ranging from cutting scars into flesh and rubbing ink in them to using a modern gun. Given the popularity of tattooing today, it’s not impossible that some machines would survive after the end of humanity. The only thing to keep in mind is that these run off electricity, so unless there’s a working generator or other power source nearby, it won’t work. A technique more suited for our game is called tebori, which involves the artist using hand-made tools and repeatedly jabbing them under the skin. While infinitely more painful and a much longer process, the results are actually more vibrant then modern day guns. However, if a power source is available, a tattoo gun would be the fastest way to get results.
With any tattooing process, the pigment is kept in small caps to the side. The needle is dipped in this, and then applied to the skin, so the artist must pause in order to “refill” the ink. There’s no way to hold ink in the gun itself, much like a paintbrush. Painting is a lot like tattooing, except for the fact that mistakes are a lot less unforgiving. The actual process will take a varying amount of time depending on the size and complexity of the tattoo. For something large and intricate, upwards of 20 hours or more is an average time estimate. Pain tolerance is another major factor -- most people can’t sit for more then a few hours before needing a break.
Healing
Once the tattoo is done, the really hard part begins; the healing process. Making sure that the tattoo stays clean and using ointments to keep it moist as well as prevent infection is a process that takes several weeks -- beeswax is a natural agent that can be used in such a manner. Exposure to the sun, salt-water, and other chemicals will pull the colors out from the tattoo, so it’s expected that on canines out in the wilderness there will be no perfect tattoos.
Many thanks to Mel for these excellent guides to dyeing and tattooing.
Piercing
Piercing is a very old form of body modification, available to humans nearly 5,000 years ago. Some Luperci may practice piercing for spiritual reasons, as rites of passage, or simply as decorative pieces. It's up to you what the meaning behind your character's piercings is. Ear piercing is one of the most common forms of piercing, however -- nose piercings, lip or tongue piercings, nipple or genital piercings, and other surface-type piercings are possible in Luperci.
Areas
- Ears: The ears are a common place to pierce, and most piercers will be very knowledgeable about these piercings. The lobe near to the skull or the upper ear are common places -- however, note that excessive piercing or very heavy earrings will result in reduced, delayed movement of the ears. Thus, overall, hearing will be decreased and lessened. Heavy piercings to the upper ear are ill-advised.
- Nose: Nose piercings, either to the side of the nose or through the center, would be possible in canines, though a thinner ring should be used. This piercing will usually heal if removed for too long, and canines who allow this piercing to grow out may find that they are more prone to nosebleeds or injuries to that area.
- Lip: There are several positions of lip rings possible in canines. Heavy lip jewelry is ill-advised, as canine lips aren't nearly as strong as human lips. Variations of this include things similar to monroe piercings and medusa piercings.
- Tongue: Tongue piercings are more risky in canines, as they lack the dexterity of the mouth in humans and have a much more powerful bite. Dental damage can occur, and tongue piercings have a risk of delayed infection.
- Eyebrow: Eyebrow piercings are possible in canines, though as with humans they are a piercing likely to grow out and reject. A slightly curved barbell should be used for the initial piercing.
- Other: Other piercings, such as nipple, navel, and genital piercings are less common, and carry many of the same risks as they do in humans. Navel piercings are among the slowest to heal. It would be rarer to encounter a canine with these types of piercings, and harder to find a canine capable of these types of piercings.
- Stretching and Surface Piercings: Stretching, that is, the deliberate expansion of a healed hole in the skin, is not common in Luperci, as the process is much more time-consuming, requires more regular initial maintenance, and are prone to complications in healing. When done, however, "[s]tone, fossilized materials, wood, bone, horn, amber, bamboo, silicone, and glass are not uncommon in stretched piercings."1 Surface piercings are similarly rare due to difficulty in healing; the body may reject the jewelry more easily with these sorts of piercings, and specialized curved jewelry must be used for different locations on the body.
Jewelry
In order to pierce, one must have the proper equipment to do so. An important component to remember is the jewelry used for piercing. Jewelry can be simple or intricate, but it's important to take into consideration that your character will still need to hunt and move, at the very least.
Bone, wood, horn, stone, amber, minerals, and other materials have been used to make jewelry as well as adorn it, but metal is the safest and least likely to cause infection. During the humans' time, stainless steel, titanium, niobium, platinum, and palladium were commonly used for bodily piercings. These metals could have withstood the test of time in the proper environment, though it would take a relatively knowledgable canine to be able to recognize them. Gold is a soft metal, and as it is often mixed with other metals, should never be used for an initial piercing; sterling silver is also less viable, "as it may cause allergies in initial piercings and will tarnish in piercings of any age."
It's very important to consider sizing and strength -- a typical stud-style earring with a simple back would not last long in an active Luperci unless they were very careful with it. It's also likely the earring stud could become lost -- captive bead rings and barbells are sturdier and utilize screws to stay in place, and thus would be more likely than simple studs or hoops. Different piercing areas require different types of jewelry. Claw-style jewelry is impractical as they can snag easily, but as these are relatively easy to construct, they may be a good choice for beginning jewelery-makers.
Risks
An extremely common risk occurs during the healing process, of course -- if not properly cared for, piercings will fall prey to infection, which can lead to serious complications, including death. After the piercing is healed, excessive jostling or traumatic injury to the pierced area can further complicate things -- with tongue or lip piercings, dental trauma can occur, along with damage from prolonged rubbing and friction between the tooth and jewelry.
One natural risk of any piercing in Luperci is the disadvantageous nature of piercings when it comes to fighting -- if your Luperci is heavily pierced or adorned and likes to engage in fights, it is realistic to expect that eventually, someone will be able to figure out they can cause immense, immediate pain by attacking and attempting to rip out one of your character's piercings!
Another consideration is the environment in which your character typically moves -- Luperci tend to live in the wilderness and are more active in environments with hanging branches, leaves, and so forth. This is more dangerous where piercings are concerned, as they may become snagged or caught, causing intense pain or even permanent injury. It's smarter for a Luperci to wear jewelry that sits close to the body and has less chance of being yanked or pulled -- large hoops, dangling earrings, and other stylish choices should be reserved for special occasions rather than every-day wear.
Yet another consideration is the risk of allergy -- some Luperci may not be able to sustain piercings, as their bodies are allergic to the metals (much as some humans are allergic to metals) and will reject them. Other Luperci may retain the piercing, but are unable to wear jewelry made with certain metals. Titanium is least likely to cause an allergic reaction, whereas cheaper metals such as nickel are likely to cause an allergic reaction. Luperci are not naturally more sensitive to silver or any other metal.
Process
Jewelry and piercing tools should be sterilized prior to use -- strong alcohol or fire is capable of doing this. This is to minimize infection. For precision, if the area is hairy, it should be shaved or trimmed. The piercing needle can be a medical-type needle with a hollow tip, depending on the size and position of the piercing. A cork or other soft wood can be used behind the flesh to prevent accidental jabbings and improve precision. Needles of many different kinds can be used with varying degrees of success or for different types of piercings -- for example, Cannula needles require that the piercing is inserted in the opposite direction that the piercing was made, whereas most other needles require the jewelery to be inserted in the same direction as the needle. 2 The individual process for piercing different areas will vary, but generally, the piercer seeks to make a clean, straight hole through the area in stab, with as little trauma to the area as possible.
Healing
Healing a piercing can take as little as a month for some piercings, and up to two full years for others. Salt water can be used to soak piercings; however, if a character knows how to evaporate water and obtain the remaining salt and other things left behind, they may wish to prepare their own solution. Characters also should not refer to themselves playing with the piercing, touching, or rotating it, as these can increase infection chances and may make it more difficult for the piercing to heal.3
Scarification
Scarification is the intentional cutting of the body into designs or patterns. Scarification is usually done with simple cutting tools such as blades or knives, as more complex tools such as rotary tools and lasers are obviously not available to Luperci. While these tools don't offer the same precision as the electric-powered ones, characters can still utilize bladed tools for scarification purposes.
One advantage of scarification is that fur typically will not grow back over areas where repeated scarification has produced a very thick or raised design; even shallow cuts that are thick enough may prevent fur from growing back. For that reason, scarification may be more visible than tattoos (unless scarification or branding was first used to prevent fur growth, of course).
One drawback of scarification is that areas within a design, enclosed within two lines, may also die off and become scars as well, as blood supply can be cut off or removed entirely from these areas.
Process
Scalpels, blades, and other sharpened tools can be used -- of course, the duller the tool, the sloppier and worse the design will be.
It is generally no more than 3 millimeters in depth, dependent on the area of the body being cut. It also can be widened without needing to deepen the cut more. The idea is to make an even and consistent cut without actually removing a piece of skin. Aftercare is generally dependent on the desired result, and the practitioner should be able to recommend an appropriate aftercare regimen to help achieve that result.
Healing
In contrast to what one might think, some amount of irritation is necessary for better scarification. Irritation prolongs the healing process and produces a more pronounced scar. Tension and movement are helpful to produce scars. Some may choose to use natural irritants on their scarification areas, such as ash or ink to produce color within the scarred area. Some areas even utilize a method known as "packing" -- filling the scarred areas with clay. While this is a harsh method for healing, it produces large, raised scars.6
It is not absolutely necessary to irritate a scarification wound to produce a scar -- however, some canines will be more prone to scarring than others, and thus some may require irritation or multiple applications in order to produce the desired results.
Scarification is more risky than tattooing or piercing, as there needs to be a balance between good healing and prevention of infection and scarification, which is aided by slower healing and irritation of the wound. Mild infections are not uncommon with scarification projects, and characters who undergo them must take special care of their wounds.
Branding
Branding is another method of body modification, usually utilizing heated tools to burn a design or marking into flesh. Branding is advantageous because the fur will not grow back after branding and the design is visible despite fur. Branding is often utilized by Luperci to ensure their tattoos will be visible even with fur. As with scarification, areas enclosed within a design may die off and become scarred over.
Tools
Branding requires more tools than scarification, generally -- not only is a heat source such as fire required, but in order to achieve very intricate designs, the tool used to brand must be in the shape of that item. This usually requires knowledge of metalworking, as this will achieve the finest lines and greatest control over the design. More simple designs can be achieved by using simple blunted metal objects, but this does offer far less precision.
Traditional strike-branding requires that the artist holds the heated object against the skin for a long enough period to cause burn damage to the skin -- quick taps will not cause enough scarring and damage to the skin and will not look like the design. All of the strikes to the design (if using an object not in the shape of the intended design) should be even to increase the uniform appearance of the design.9
Healing
Brands take a very long time to heal. As with scarification, brands can be left alone or irritated -- similarly, some canines will be more or less receptive to scars from brands than others. Those intending to tattoo over a branded area should wait until the brand is very well healed in order to attempt tattooing; tattooing on a fresh brand is extremely ill-advised, though as with scarifications, ash and other irritatns can be used to create color patterns.
Other Modifications
Implants
Transdermal implants are possible in Luperci. Generally made of metal, these are implanted beneath the skin in order to produce a design. A single large implant can be used, or numerous small implants can be used to produce designs. Implants are less prone to rejecting and infection as they are sealed completely within the body, although in rare cases this may still occur. Allergic reaction also must be taken into consideration -- metals such as nickel, gold, or other alloys are not ideal choices for implants. More inert items would be better used for this purpose.